Statue of the Goddess of Heaven at Tseun Wan Tin Hau Temple Photo: HKTB
Today (22 May) we celebrate the birthday of the Queen of Heaven and Goddess of the Sea. Tin Hau was a real person — oh, yes, the fishermen have no doubt — who predicted storms, healed the sick and saved people from drowning. Tin Hau lived about 1000 years ago during the Song Dynasty. Hong Kong has more than 70 temples to the beloved Queen, but the most celebrated of all is here in the Sai Kung area at Joss House Bay.
The bamboo theatre in the centre of Sai Kung close to the temple is an annual event
Sai Kung is alive today, and will be so for a week, with flags and banners honouring Tin Hau. Fishermen have decorated their boats; there will be parades and processions, dragon and lion dances, incense offerings, flower plaques. The flags and banners symbolise the protection and blessing the Goddess is giving you and your family. If you get a chance, pat a dragon or a lion of the head. This will bring you good luck. You may even see a unicorn.
Yi Chun Street is crowded with stalls selling food and souvenirs
And as usual the main streets in the centre of town are closed off with the bamboo theatre with its tin roof, blocking Yi Chun St, flags and banners everywhere, especially on the waterfront and Po Tung Raod, and a shopping bazaar of little stalls lines both side of Yi Chun St.
The Tin Hau Temple at Joss House Bay is the oldest such temple in Hong Kong Photo: HKTB
The celebration at the Joss House Bay (Tai Miu Wan) Tin Hau temple is attended annually by up to 50,000 people. Oldest in Hong Kong, the temple was built in the southern Song dynasty about 900 years ago. Inside Tin Hau temples you will find two guards, the daemon brothers, Chin Lei Ngan (Thousand Li Eyes) and Shun Fung Yi (With the Wind Ear) on either side of the main altar.
Tin Hau is also known as Mazu meaning Mother Ancestor or Grandmother. Her birthday is traditionally held on the 23rd day of the third lunar month, but for some reason — perhaps to do with the fishermen coming home from the sea — Sai Kung holds its festival about a month late. The celebration of her life is perhaps the noisiest festival in Hong Kong. Be ready for a clamour of dance, cymbals and drums.
Flags adorn the Sai Kung waterfront
This is how to show respect during the week-long Tin Hau Festival:
SEA PARADE: Stay away from the path of the divine vessel and refrain from excessive noise.
IN THE VILLAGE: When the portable shrine with the Tin Hau statue passes by, bow or kneel.
IN THE TEMPLE: Avoid disturbing the ghosts inside, dress modestly, refrain from loud talking, do not run, stand when a monk or nun enters, you may light incense or sprinkle fragrant water on the Buddha statue without spilling.
This way you will have a positive and meaningful experience during the Tin Hau Festival and you will be set up favourably for the Year of the Green Snake.
All photos courtesy of Katherine Cheung except where credited.
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